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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.